-Using shielded wire-
Shielded wire can prevent noise and oscillation on signal carrying wires in effects and amps.
While it is not a cure for a bad layout or other problems, even very well thought out layouts will pick up some noise.
Circuits with high gain are most susceptible to noise etc.
I use shielded wire from the input and output jacks to the switch and on gain and volume controls in amps.
These are the main place to use shielded wire. What you are try to do is shield the high gain and high impedance
wire runs from radiated noise . The longer the unshielded wires length the more chance noise has as getting in.
You only need to connect the shield at one end because the braided shield will work if both ends are not connected and
if you do connect both ends you may have a problems with ground loops and signals traveling across the shielded connection.
I use Teflon wire because it will not melt or shrink with a soldering iron.
If you use wire other than Teflon you must keep an eye out for melting the inner core's insulation,
which will short out the shielded braid to the inner conductor.
While it is not a cure for a bad layout or other problems, even very well thought out layouts will pick up some noise.
Circuits with high gain are most susceptible to noise etc.
I use shielded wire from the input and output jacks to the switch and on gain and volume controls in amps.
These are the main place to use shielded wire. What you are try to do is shield the high gain and high impedance
wire runs from radiated noise . The longer the unshielded wires length the more chance noise has as getting in.
You only need to connect the shield at one end because the braided shield will work if both ends are not connected and
if you do connect both ends you may have a problems with ground loops and signals traveling across the shielded connection.
I use Teflon wire because it will not melt or shrink with a soldering iron.
If you use wire other than Teflon you must keep an eye out for melting the inner core's insulation,
which will short out the shielded braid to the inner conductor.
 Start by
striping off the outer insulation. I usually use a razor to do this. It
takes only a small amount of pressure. You don't want to cut or
nick the braid strands.
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 Push the braid back with your fingers. This loosens the braid and sets you up for the next step.
|
 Take
a small sharp object and pick out the braid. A jewelers screwdriver of a
multimeter probe tip works well. Start at the top and work toward the
bottom near the insulation.
|
 Once
all the braid is picked out you can bend it back about 90 degrees and
twist it up. Then bend the whole twist back parallel with the insulated
wire.
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 Now you can solder on a short piece of wire to make your "ground wire". Cut off the excess braid shield . Cut
a small piece of heat shrink tubing and shrink it over the connection.
Now you have two insulated wires to connect to the jacks or switch. For
the opposite end of the wire I strip about an inch of the insulation
and pick out the braid, then cut off the shielding so you have a inch
of inner conductor sticking,
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 out
of the shielded wire.. Add bit of shrink tubing over the bare cut
end where the inner conductor and the braid and outer insulation
meet and you wont have any surprise shorts to the slight bit of braid
that pokes out.
Make sure to only connect the shield at one end. I usually connect it at the jacks sleeve terminal. For the wiring going to the switch I connect it at the switch where the ground for the LED connects. |
 Heres what the pot looks like with the added Shielded wiring.
This is the gain pot. Notice the add on ground wire length...nice! |
 Here's
what the switch looks like. The blue shrink wrap is insulating the
ground wire soldered to the shielding braid of on of the wires.
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 Here's the finished box . In this case a Dr Boogey. |
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